Navplion – A City To Visit In Summer Or Winter

Navplion – A City To Visit in Summer Or Winter

My first glimpse of Navplion was from our chartered yacht as we rounded the headland during a glorious evening sail in July 2012.  As we approached we could see the magnificent fort on our port side, which the Greeks once used to guard the entrance to the harbour.

Our berth (one of the last available against the harbour wall) was to be between our lead boat and a vast high-sided catamaran with a rather anxious gentleman on board who began pacing up and down even more quickly when he saw a female at the helm.  Once safely ensconced for the night, we couldn’t wait to explore this city which had seen so much history.

Navplion History

Greek Naval Admiral

Navplion was the capital of Greece before Athens (1821-1834) and sits at the head of the Argolic Gulf in the Peloponnese.  It is here where the fearless sea captain Laskarina Bouboulina and her fleet of eight ships sailed to and took part in the siege of the fortress which she eventually captured.  Bouboulina was born on the island of Hydra, moved to Spetses following her marriages to two sea captains who left her wealthy enough after their deaths to buy several ships and form her own fleet.  Very sadly, Bouboulina was shot on 22nd May 1825,  in a family dispute. Bouboulina was one of the first women to play a major revolutionary role and without her and her ships, the Greeks may well not have gained their independence.

Within walking distance of the (industrial) harbour wall is the most amazing ice-cream shop … further on a plethora of side streets lead you away from the main road to the pedestrianized area and grand main square which is adorned with the most attractive Venetian-style houses, restaurants, bars, shops and tavernas.  There is so much to do in Navplion, you would be hard-pressed to get round it all in a day, well, that is if you take in refreshments, food and shopping like we did!

During the hot summer months, pretty much all the restaurants feature those welcoming ice-fans to cool you down while you sip your vodka-martini and watch the action – always lots going on in the way of outdoor entertainment.

Easily accessible from Navplion is Mycenae

Entrance to the underground water source at Mycenae

What a spectacular coastal view from the home which used to belong to the King of Sparta, Agamemnon.  There is an almost eerie silence which surrounds the ruins now and the highlight for me were to treat the well-worn steps from ground level, leading underground to an extensive plumbing system which provided Mycenae with fresh drinking water.

History: The site of Mycenae was first excavated in 1874 by Heinrich Schliemann, the German amateur archaeologist who had also discovered the ruins of Troy.  A magnificent palace used to reside on this hillside, which was surrounded by great walls.  The city was crowned with an acropolis even before the Mycenaean civilization, and the location of the site was of huge strategic importance.  The ancient city boasted houses, bakeries, workshops, and even a granary. Several of the tombs in Mycenae have been named after the family of Atreus. There is Agamemnon’s tomb, the tomb of Clytemnestra and Aegisthus’ tomb.
Mycenae was almost completely destroyed by a fire in the 12th century. The Mycenaean civilization declined, but the area was still inhabited. It is believed it was abandoned in the 3rd century AD.

The findings from Mycenae can be viewed in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, but all over Greece there are also smaller museums that hold Mycenaean objects.

Summary:

Navplion is a joy to visit.  From a sailor’s perspective, no showers immediately available on the quayside but lots of small hotels if you are desperate in the winter.  You can eat with the locals at a typical taverna offering local dishes in one of the back streets or dine out in your finery at one of the high class (and more expensive) restaurants that Navplion has to offer.  The buildings are amazing with a strong Italian influence and there is lots going on.

Return soon to read more about Greece, her islands and all she has to offer.

 

Ikaria

I have finally found the special Greek island I would like to retire to which is in the north-east Aegean. Both my best friend and my mother sent me the article written by the Daily Mail journalist Jan Moir, about Ikaria so I believe this is the Greek omen I have been waiting for –  there must be something in the fact that two people who know me better than most others thought of me when they read it.

I have therefore done a little research on Ikaria.  Located off the coast of Turkey, close to Samos where, strangely enough, I almost bought a share in a property a couple of years ago. Apparently the people live until more than 100 and are happy drinkers and some even still smoke!

Back to Ikaria – in Jan Moir’s words “the people live longer and better than almost anywhere else on the planet.”  Well, that’s a good enough start for me!

People on Ikaria regularly reach the age of 90 with two and a half times the frequency of Americans. Ikarian men, in particular, are four times as likely to reach 90, and are often in better health than their foreign counterparts.
It is said that Ikarians also suffer less depression and a quarter of the rate of dementia. ‘On Ikaria, they stay sharp to the end,’

It comes as no surprise to me that locals and experts agree that the most important keys to Ikarian longevity and good health are diet, exercise and wine, which us Grecophiles have known particularly about the island of Crete for some time.  We Brits could do worse than to take some advice from Greek islanders who are said to be some of the healthiest people in the world.

Ikarian wine, made from a mixture of red and white grapes, does not contain any additives or sulphites, but has a very high alcohol content of 16 per cent and sometimes even 18 per cent — this just gets better!  On Ikaria it is usually drunk in small but convivial measures, and never without food.  (Greeks are more sensible about their drinking habits than elsewhere in the West).  Please Waitrose, can you get your act together so that I can order some online!

A typical Ikarian breakfast is tea (made with wild herbs), bread with local honey, (bought by me in large quantities when in Greece to combat nasty winter colds in miserable UK winters), olives and cheese. Elsewhere in Greece the tea is swapped for strong Greek coffee and most of the Greeks I know only have a cigarette or two for breakfast.  The main meal of the day on Ikaria, like on other islands, is lunch: typically vegetables with pulses or beans, wine (of course) and bread – a must everywhere in Greece, followed by a siesta. The light evening meal on Ikaria is apparently similar to breakfast.

Horta, a generic name for a selection of wild plants picked from the hillsides is a well known dish all over Greece – usually boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon or sometimes used in salads.

The island’s capital 

Agios Kirykos (Άγιος Κήρυκος) Its population was 3,243 at the last census, and its land area is 74.745 km². It is the administrative capital of Ikaria and includes the island of Fourni.

The municipal unit shares the island of Ikaria with the municipal units of Evdilos and Raches; of the three, it is the largest in population and smallest in land area.

It was named after St. Kirykos , the youngest martyr of the Eastern Orthodox Church, who suffered death at the age of three in Asia Minor. The Cathedral Church of the town is devoted to him. Agios Kirykos is famous for hosting the annual International Chess Tournament, “Ikaros”, each July.

As with most other Greek islands, Ikaria boasts its own archaeological museum, a traditional square, and a stadium (in Patela), which hosted the 10th Pan-Aegean Games.  It also hosts the statue of Skepsi (thinking woman), the altar of the flame for the Aerathletic international IKARIADA Games and the Lefkada Annunciation medieval monastery.

Hotels

There are a few small hotels offering pools right by the sea. Check the Trip Adviser site to see what others have said.

Ikaria offers an excellent diversity of beaches to suit everyone. From remote sandy beaches where you are unlikely to encounter anything except pure nature, to cosmopolitan beaches with amenities.The clarity  of the shallows surrounding Ikaria are unparalleled. The sea surrounding  Ikaria ranks amongst the cleanest in the world. Ikaria’s most popular sandy beaches are predominantly located on the North side of the island and on the South side the beaches are less crowded.

Music and dancing are major forms of entertainment on Ikaria, and figure prominantly in the lives of Ikarians. Throughout the year Ikarians host baptisms, weddings, parties and religious festivals where one can listen and dance to live traditional Ikarian Music.

Ikariotiko

While in Ikaria don’t miss the chance to experience firsthand the “Ikariotiko” (traditional dance of Ikaria) by attending one of the many Panagiria (Saints’ Days/Feasts) which take place during the summer. In the meantime you can get a taste of Ikarian Music by clicking here.

The Greek House Features Kefalonia & Halkidiki

We are featuring some new properties on our website which deserve a mention due to their wonderfully unspoilt locations:

Southern Kefalonia

The southern coastline of Kefalonia boasts a string of safe sandy beaches, gorgeous views across the deep blue Ionian sea to the island of Zakynthos, and the fabulous backdrop of Mount Aenos (at 1628m the highest peak in the Ionian). There are no big hotels or large resorts here.

Spartia is an authentically sleepy whitewashed village perched on the hillside above the sea with a fishing jetty safe enough for children to play in the gently sloping shallows either side. Although only 15 km from Argostoli, and 10km from the airport and resort of Lassi, Spartia has remained traditional and the lush countryside makes you feel like you are very much off the beaten track. It has a  taverna and two mini-markets.

Lourdas, halfway along the south coast, has a long white sandy beach which stretches for around a kilometre and shelves gently into the bluest of seas. Sunbeds are available to hire, and there are around six tavernas to choose from as well as a mini-market.

The original village of Lourdata has a beautiful and traditional plane-tree-shaded square, three tavernas and a couple of small shops.

For much of the year Lourdas is very quiet. However, it is popular with locals and can be busy during weekends and in the high season.

HALKIDIKI

ATHOS is the third and most easterly of the three ‘legs’ of the Halkidiki. peninsula, and the closest airport is Thessaloniki.  Athos is also the least developed and this has to be one of its most attractive features.
The majority of Athos cannot be visited without a special permit as the ‘Agion Oros’ or ‘Holy Mountain’ has been run as a self-governing monastic state for more than 1,000 years and is dominated by the majestic 2,000m conical peak of Mount Athos.
The Athos peninsula extends for about 60km to the south and its surrounding seas are notorious for strong currents. Although linked to the land, Mt Athos is accessible only by boat and all non-religious support workers live in the central village of Karyes.

Religious rules are strictly enforced on Agion Oros and women are not allowed to set foot on the Holy Mountain.

The majority of tourists are restricted to viewing the monasteries with binoculars from on board boats offering trips around the peninsula.

The only places to sleep in Agion Oros are the monasteries, which offer spartan dormitory-style accommodation. Most, but not all, require advance reservations.

No payment is expected for stays of one night in a monastery but donations are usually accepted, especially for longer stays.

This year Greek Islands are even more appealing

Looking out of my window at the rain on a decidely cold August day, I am glad I went to Crete this summer – despite a couple of days when the petrol stations were closed.   The lack of other tourists made this July a very special time to be in Greece – we even had the beach to ourselves one lunchtime and always managed to sit at the best tables next to the shimmering water in our favourite tavernas.

One of special note is Ergospasio in Elounda.  Co-owners Kostas and Dimitris have done a marvellous job converting the old Carob Factory.  A three-storey stone structure set at the water’s edge features some very beautiful touches; pashminas for the ladies when the wind gets up in the evening, their own Ergospasio label wine, and this year’s addition, a gorgeous and talented singer and guitarist singing in Greek and English.  There is even a little washing line (complete with pegs) where the boys hang their baby squid to dry as soon as it reaches dry land!

Crete will always hold a special place in my heart but this year more than any other I felt so fortunate to be able to enjoy all it has to offer with so few people around.

The locals had time for a chat to catch up, even the usually bustling fishing town of Aghios Nikolaos had an almost serene atmosphere as we enjoyed our last morning’s breakfast next to the harbour.  I’m pleased to report that the sea is still as crystal clear as ever it was (and the waiters as chirpy).

So if you haven’t been away and are looking for a relaxing break before the kids go back to school, I would thoroughly recommend this island, reputedly the birthplace of Zeus.

If the beach is not for you there are so many other places to see on Crete, centre of the Minoan civilisation and steeped in so much history.  My favourites are the archealogical site at Knossos (where the first flushing toilet was invented), Vai Beach (the palm tree beach where the original Bounty ad was filmed), The Samaria Gorge (simply breath-taking scenery).  You can even take an excursion to stunning  Santorini to experience the most amazing sunset I have ever seen,  not forgetting of course the pretty little island of Spinalonga, which was a leper colony up until the late 1950’s and whose history inspired Victoria Hislop to write “the Island.”

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What to do on the island of Crete

What to do on Crete
If you are lucky enough to be visiting the rugged and spectacular island of Crete this summer you might find it interesting to read about a few of the extraordinary trips which are worth taking time out from the beach for:

If you’re staying on the eastern side of this magical island it is relatively easy for you to get to any of the following – either by local bus (they have air-con these days and the possibility of you coming across a live chicken is relatively remote) – or by taxi or car:

Knossos – Interesting Fact:  The Minoan Palace of Knossos housed the first ever flushing toilet (although you wouldn’t think so judging by the lack of progress since).

Agios Nikolaos – Interesting Fact:   The lake around which this bustling fishing harbour is built is bottomless and was the location for the BBC TV series “The Lotus Eaters” during the early 70’s.   The series derived its title from the Lotus Eaters of Greek Mythology – those who ate the fruit of the Lotus tree lost the desire to return home …. hmmm… sounds somehow familiar.

Vai Beach – Interesting Fact:  Surrounded by natural palms, Vai  is  Where the original Bounty Bar advert was filmed.

Spinalonga – Interesting Fact:  Spinalonga was a leper colony up until the late 1950s.  This special but somewhat eerie island with it’s battlements and ruins draws you back time and again.  Also the inspiration for the book by Victoria Hislop, The Island.  If you have read The Island you may be interested to know that there is a filmset in the village of Pano (upper) Elounda where the Greeks are making the book into a film.

If you are staying on the western side of Crete, in the Chania region, the following trips really are worth making if want to make the most of your visit – assuming of course you have the energy to leave the beach and your sunbed for a while!

Samaria Gorge – Interesting Fact:   The longest Gorge in Europe,
Samaria starts at an altitude of 1,250m and you complete the walk from the Omalos plateau to Agia Roumeli where you can dive into the Libyan Sea for a very welcome cool down.  The walk takes between 4 and 7 hours.  If you don’t fancy a 16km round trip, there is also “lazy way” – from Agia Roumeli to the Iron Gates and back which takes in around an hour of non-challenging terrain.

Chania war Museum Interesting Fact – designed by the Italian architect Makouzo.
The War Museum of Chania is located on the corner of I. Sfakianaki and Tzanakaki streets next to the Municipal Gardens. The building, built in 1870 was once the Italian Barracks.
The aim of the Museum is the collection, protection, conservation and exhibition of war artifacts and other items, mainly from 1821-1940 which covers most of the national wars and revolutions, including the participation of Cretan soldiers in the Macedonian Wars, the Balkan Wars, the Asia Minor Campaign, and the World Wars I and II and during the German occupation (1941-1945).

Chania Naval Museum Interesting Fact:  This beautiful building was used as a prison by the Turks and by the Nazis.
From ancient Greek mariners to World War Two heroes you will learn lots of interesting facts about the events that filled Crete’s poignant past.

Elafonisi Beach – Interesting Fact:  This amazing beach is home to som expert windsurfers windsurfers and even features pink sand!
I can honestly say having travelled throughout the Caribbean that this beach is top of my list and well worth the drive if you are staying in or close to Chania.

I hope you enjoy soaking up all that Crete has to offer as much as I do – Happy Holidays!

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Dodecanese Islands

Some Greek property owners still have availability on their lovely island properties so if you’ve been waiting for things in Greece to calm down and haven’t booked yet, you might find it useful to read about some of the lesser known islands – I’m dedicating this week’s blog to the Dodecanese group of islands.

Whilst looking for our magical Greek get-away, I found some simply gorgeous villas for sale in Astypalea, the butterfly-shaped island which is 18km long by 13km wide.  This is a good one to start with if you like mythology as Astypalaia was named after a woman abducted by Poseidon in the form of a winged fish-tailed leopard (work that one out)!  The Astypalea coastline is  rocky with many small pebbly beaches and the most popular beach is Maltezana, from where you can take a boat to Moura and Parou. Ferries connect the island with Piraeus, Naxos, Paros, Kalymnos and other islands of the Dodecanese.

The Dodecanese islands are made up of 12 large Rhodes Kos Patmos Astypalea, Kalymnos, Karpathos, Kasos, Leros, Nisyros, Symi, Tilos and Kastelorizo plus 150 smaller islands.

Rhodes

Rhodes is famous for the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  The Colossus of Rhodes was a statue of Helios, god of the sun which straddled the entrance to Rhodos Harbour between 292 and 280 BC. Before it was destroyed by an earthquake in 224BC, the statue stood over 100 feet high, which made it the tallest statue of ancient times.

Patmos
Famous for its religious past, the island is where Saint John wrote the Book of Revelation. Patmos is also reknowned for its cheese products (touloumotyri and mizithra) –  the delicious tyropita (cheesepie) is one of the island’s specialties!

Kalymnos
Well known for it’s sponges Sponge Diving has been the livelihood of Kalymnos for many years and it is this rare skill which differentiates Kalymnos from the rest of the world. http://www.seasponges.com.au/information/sponge-diving/

Karpathos
If you’re into windsurfing this could be the island for you.  During May and October the Meltemi (Aegean wind) blows between force 5-7 all day long
http://www.windsurfing-karpathos.com/

Kasos

The world famous tenor Mario Frangoulis comes from Kasos – he gives a concert in August in the picturesque harbour of Mpoukas. The event attracts an audience from all over Greece.

Leros

I fell in love with Leros in the 80s when I was travelling on my own for a familiarisation trip with Olympic Holidays – a quiet haven which has since become one of the more sought after upmarket destinations among the Greek islands.

Nysiros
Like Santorini,  Nisyros is a volcanic islandwhich offers wonderful landscapes and walks, beautiful beaches and a clear sea, old churches and monasteries with a rich history and lovely Greek villages with nice restaurants and bars.

Symi Symi is an island with great religious tradition. It is not known for it’s sandy beaches but  is well known for it’s  monastery, built on the bay of Panormos and is dedicated to the Archangel Michael, protector of the island.

Tilos
According to mythology this small, but very beautiful island gets its name from the young son of Alia and Helios. Tilos, who loved his mother dearly, visited the island in search of herbs to make her well. Later on, he returned to Tilos to build a temple in honor of Apollo and Poseidon.
Beach pic

Kastelorizo
The Aqua-coloured Cave of Kastellorizo is one of the rarest geological phenomena on Earth and makes Kastellorizo well worth a visit. The cave is also known as “Fokiali” seals ( fokia ) which live inside – and it is the most phantasmagorical cave in the whole of the Med . It is 75m long (inside), 40m wide and 35m high.

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Time to think about remote Greek Islands

Time to think about remote Greek Islands

At last we had a sunny start to the day in London today but in a way it makes me yearn even more for the warmth of the Greek sun on my back as I remember how good it feels to sit on the harbour wall in Elounda with my toes in the water, sipping a nice cool frappe and watching the boats depart for the island of Spinalonga.

Elounda has grown in the 20 years or so since I lived there but somehow, although the buildings have spread, it really hasn’t changed that much.  I’ve since visited various destinations throughout Europe, none of which quite match up – except of course those cherised islands we’ve sailed to by boat – all of which are well worth a visit.  I’m concentrating on the Ionian for now with snippets of information I hope you’ll find useful when researching your Greek Island holiday.

Lefkada

Nidri is a fun place to be any time of day or night.  It’s great to sit outside at a cafe or taverna watching the yachts jostling for a berth on the quay.  If however you are an avid watersports fanatic and love windsurfing, then Vassiliki Beach is a must for you.

Meganisi – Abeliki Bay – A quiet picturesque idyll

If you relish peace, this is one of the quietest anchorages which still has a taverna within walking distance!  Lovely to arrive late afternoon for that long-awaited swim off the stern to the nearest olive tree with your shoreline coiled up around your shoulder!

Fiskardo, Kefalonia

Probably the most well known place in the the Ionian after Corfu!  Lots of tavernas to choose from and always something or someone to watch in this bustling harbour town.

Kalamos – Beautiful views

According to mythology, Karpos was the son of Zephyrus and Chloris. He sadly drowned in the Meander river while competing with his friend Kalamos in a swimming competition. In his grief, Kalamos also drowned and transformed into a water reed, whose rustling in the wind was interpreted as a sigh of lamentation.

Vathy (meaning deep water or harbour) Ithaka – real Greek atmosphere

Homer’s Ithaka, the birthplace of Odysseus, whose delayed return to the island is the subject of the Odyssey.

If you’re not sailing, take a boat from Kefalonia to this wonderful lush island which is steeped in history and well worth spending time driving around to appreciate all the wonders it has to offer.  There are day boats with outboards you can hire to explore and swim in the cool caves just around the coast from the magical port of Vathy.

Sivota, Lefkas – popular with sailing flotillas

Sivota is built around a secluded harbour with traditional stone-built houses and provides perfect shelter for yachts.  There is a great choice of tavernas and bars but probably not the best location for those wanting to swim, although children (carefully watched over by their parents) love to fish here from the harbour wall and there is a small stoney beach on the opposite side of the bay.

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Should we feel sorry for the Greeks?

The Greek House Blog

It’s a few weeks since I wrote about our wonderful sailing holiday in the Ionian.  Since then the poor old Greeks have been having a tough time and the younger generation are going to suffer, thanks to the antics of their seniors.

When I lived in Crete in the 80’s we were paid around £50 a week and, try as we might, my colleagues and I hardly ever managed to spend this as our Greek friends were so generous and giving.  Unlike the Brits, it is in the Greek nature to share and share they did – in fact if you have visited Greece you will know how offended these warm and hospitable people can become if you even hint at offering to pay your way.  This is just one of the many reasons why we should all visit their beautiful country.  There is nowhere else on earth like Greece.  Instead of shrugging and adopting the attitude that “they have brought on their troubles themselves,” we should instead admire the way they have held on like grim death to their traditions and not allowed anyone or anything to change the beliefs which have made Greece such a fascinating and wonderful country.  A pity we didn’t follow their lead or our public services wouldn’t now be bursting at the seams, nor would we be facing some of the tax hikes which are sure to be coming our way any minute now.

However, I suppose we shouldn’t feel too sorry for them – at least the Greeks will always have one of their stunning 1400 islands to choose from when wanting to escape the heat of the Athenian summer!  Here are some you may not have heard of :

Gavdos Island

Gavdos island lies 22 miles off the south west coast of Crete, in the Libyan Sea and is the most southerly point in Europe. The island is inhabited by only around 40 people!  You can take the boat from Sfakia on the mainland, but be aware that apart from beautiful beaches with occasional tavernas and scented pine forests, there is evidence of  little else.

Spinalonga

In 1903 after Crete had become independent, all Turks were obliged to leave the island.  However, some of them living on the small island of Spinalonga just off the north-east coast of Crete declined to leave, as they were protected by the French navy, which had a base on Spinalonga.

The government therefore decided to scare them off by banishing all inhabitants who were sick with leprosy from the island of Crete to Spinalonga.  The lepers were known as “the untouchables,” because at that time their illness was incurable and contagious.  (Leprosy was thought to be a punishment from God).  Fearing contamination, the Turks fled from Spinalonga back to Turkey.  Spinalonga became a leper colony which existed until a cure was found  in 1950.  The colony closed down in 1957.  Since 1970 the island has been visited by tourists who take boats from nearby Plaka, Elounda and Agios Nikolaos.  A good read is The Island by Victoria Hislop.

Chrissi Island

Also known as Gaidouronisi, ‘Donkey Island’, lies 8 miles  to the south east of Crete.  This uninhabited island is 5km long, and only about 1 km wide.  It’s known for its sandy beaches and unspoilt beauty.  It takes around 50 minutes by boat from Ierapetra on the south coast of Crete. There is no accommodation – just one taverna, at Vougiou Mati where the boat comes in.

Balos-Gramvoussa

Tigani to Balos is the tip of the westernmost peninsula of Crete, is a paradise of turquoise lagoons and pure white sandy beaches.
It is accessible by boat or Jeep but be  aware the road leading to the beach is what you might describe as rough going!

See The Greek House website for more on Greece and the islands

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Sailing in the Ionian

If you are thinking of sailing this summer, the Ionian is a paradise for those with young children who are not wanting the challenges of the full blown meltemi winds of the Dodecanese and Cyclades islands.

http://www.sailingissues.com/meltemi.html

We're the one stern to the end of the pontoon

If instead you are after some shelter and are looking for routes easily covered during daylight sailing hours, the Ionian might just be for you.  Flights from the UK tend to leave from Gatwick and land at Preveza from where it is a short taxi ride to the marina at Lefkada  (Lefkas island is connected to the mainland by a bridge).  Having sailed from here a couple of times, it is easy to be put off by the initial relatively narrow waterway which carries you out into the wider deep blue Ionian Sea.  Don’t be put off by first impressions!  Lefkas town, although not specifically pretty in the usual Greek way, is perfect for vittling up your yacht – there are also a couple of supermarkets closer to the marina if you can’t wait to get going and just need the essentials. We found some great restaurants in the back streets serving delicious Giros Pitta (soft pitta bread spread with tzatziki, spit-roasted chicken or pork, succulent sliced tomatoes and a few chips thrown in then wrapped up like an ice-cream cone).  http://www.explorecrete.com/cuisine/gyros.html

Once out in open water, one of the islands I would recommend for fun nights  in tavernas is Ithaka where there are several restaurants lining the port of Vathy which is where, in mid summer, you can watch the Greek jetset arrive in their superyachts – well, maybe one or two if you’re lucky.

Unless your yacht is very large, you need to moor up on one of the pontoons on your left as you enter Vathy harbour and it is a good walk to the main town from here.

The other fun harbour is Sivota on Lefkas island where you can sit in your cock-pit or in a taverna and watch the jostling for position and goings on of those who have left it late to secure a berth for the night.  Sunsail have a habit of rafting several boats together in the bay here so be warned!

One of the quieter islands is Meganisi where we have stayed and sailed to.  I must admit I became a bit bored during our week at the hotel but there is a wonderful taverna on the beach at Spartahori.  This beach is great for kids who can row safely ashore and feed the fish right from a table next to the water.  The ferry from the main port of Meganisi comes in and out of Spartahori a couple of times a day which you need to watch out for.  It is possible to anchor in the bay but you would be better off stern to on one of the pontoons if you arrive early enough.  For me this is a magical place and somewhere I will never forget.

Check back soon for more on sailing holiday tips in Greece and to read more about Greece and her magical islands go to The Greek House